Panigiria: village feasts

What is a panigiri?

A panigiri (plural panigiria) is the feast of the saint a church is named after. On the evening before the saint's day the bells ring for vespers, and afterwards the square or the churchyard fills with long tables. There is food, local wine and raki, and live Cretan music with lyra and laouto, and people dance until late into the night.

There are hundreds every year, from tiny chapels on a hilltop to whole towns. Most fall in summer, with a peak in July and August, and the feast of the Virgin Mary on 15 August is the biggest of all.

How it works

The church service comes first, usually at dusk. The party starts later, often around 21:00 or 22:00, and the dancing is at its best after midnight. Visitors are welcome. Entry is often free and you pay for food and drink at the tables; some feasts sell a dinner ticket or ask for a small contribution for the church.

The exact day and the programme are set locally, so a feast can move to the nearest weekend. Look for posters in the village kafeneio, or check the Facebook page of the village or cultural association.